Views: 0 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2026-02-18 Origin: Site
Standard 4-foot lighting fixtures dominate commercial real estate, often making the search for a replacement 5-foot tube feel like navigating a technical minefield. These specific lengths—typically 1500mm or roughly 58 to 60 inches—are less common but serve critical roles in high-bay industrial applications, specialized aquarium lighting, and outdoor signage. Facility managers frequently encounter frustration when standard replacements fail to fit, largely due to confusing variations in pin bases and incompatible ballast technologies.
The stakes for choosing the wrong replacement are higher than simple inconvenience. Installing an incompatible tube can lead to immediate electrical shorts, ruined drivers, or significant safety hazards in high-voltage sign cabinets. Conversely, upgrading correctly offers immense benefits. Switching to a 5 feet led tube not only reduces energy consumption by over 50% but also eliminates the recurring labor costs associated with replacing aging high-output fluorescent ballasts.
This guide provides a comprehensive audit of the 5-foot LED niche. You will learn how to identify specific base types like R17d and Mini Bi-Pin, distinguish between Type A and Type B driver solutions, and calculate the true return on investment for your facility. By understanding the nuances of these specialized fixtures, you can confidently execute a lighting retrofit that ensures longevity, safety, and superior visual performance.
Before purchasing inventory, you must conduct a physical audit of the existing fixtures. Unlike standard office troffers, 5-foot fixtures are often legacy systems or specialized equipment. Assumptions here are dangerous. A visual inspection of the tube markings and a physical measurement are the only ways to guarantee compatibility.
The "T" code on a fluorescent tube stands for "Tubular," and the number following it represents the diameter in eighths of an inch. This diameter often dictates the type of socket and ballast used in the fixture.
The most common error buyers make is assuming all tubes use the standard two-prong base found in office lights. 5-foot models utilize a wider variety of connectors depending on their voltage and application.
| Base Code | Common Name | Typical Application | Visual Identifier |
|---|---|---|---|
| G5 | Mini Bi-Pin | T5 High Output fixtures | Two very small pins, spaced 5mm apart. |
| G13 | Medium Bi-Pin | T8 & T12 General Lighting | Standard two pins, spaced 13mm apart. |
| R17d | Recessed Double Contact | High Output (HO) Signs & Industrial | A plastic cap with two recessed metal contacts, not protruding pins. |
| FA8 | Single Pin | Slimline T12 Fixtures | One single large pin on each end. |
Nominal length rarely equals actual length. A tube sold as "5 feet" might be technically 1500mm (Metric T5) or 60 inches (Imperial T12). This difference is minute but critical. A metric tube might be 1449mm (approx. 57 inches) pin-to-pin, whereas an imperial high-output tube might be exactly 60 inches. If you attempt to force a longer 5 feet led tube into a metric socket, you risk breaking the tombstone (socket). Conversely, a short tube will not make electrical contact and could arc. Always measure from the tip of the pin to the tip of the opposite pin before ordering.
Once you verify the physical dimensions, you must decide how to power the new LED. Fluorescent tubes require a ballast to regulate current, but LEDs run on low-voltage DC (converted via a driver). You essentially have two choices: keep the old ballast or bypass it entirely.
Type A tubes are designed with an internal driver that interprets the output from your existing fluorescent ballast. You simply remove the old tube and insert the LED.
Type B tubes require a licensed electrician or qualified technician to cut the wires connected to the ballast and wire the sockets directly to the building's line voltage (120V–277V). The ballast is either removed or abandoned in place.
Hybrid tubes offer a versatile middle ground. They function as Plug-and-Play out of the box but can also operate on direct line voltage if the ballast is bypassed later. This is excellent for inventory management, allowing teams to restore light immediately via Plug-and-Play and schedule a ballast bypass project for a later date without buying new stock.
Buyers often fear that lowering wattage will result in a dimmer facility. However, LED technology produces light differently than fluorescent technology, allowing for drastic wattage reductions without sacrificing foot-candles on the ground.
Fluorescent tubes rely on exciting mercury vapor to create light, a process that inherently wastes energy as heat. LEDs convert electricity directly into light.
Do not judge performance by wattage alone. Look for Lumens Per Watt (LPW). A high-quality commercial tube should deliver over 130 LPW. If a product uses 25 watts but only delivers 2000 lumens, it is inefficient technology.
The secret to LED efficiency lies in directionality. A fluorescent tube emits light 360 degrees. Roughly 30-40% of that light shoots upwards into the fixture housing, relying on reflectors to bounce it back down. Over time, dust and degradation on the reflector trap this light. LEDs typically have a beam angle of 120 to 160 degrees. They point all their energy downward toward the workspace. Consequently, a 3500-lumen LED often puts more light on a desk or workbench than a 5000-lumen fluorescent tube.
Color Correlated Temperature (CCT) defines the "mood" of the light.
5-foot tubes are frequently found in applications that demand more than just standard illumination. Ignoring the specific environmental requirements of these use cases leads to premature failure.
Outdoor light boxes and pylons typically use F60T12/HO lamps with R17d bases. Retrofitting these requires specific hardware. Standard LED tubes only emit light from one side. If you install a single-sided LED in a double-faced sign (one visible from both directions), one side of the sign will be dark.
For these applications, you must specify Double-Sided LEDs, which feature LED chips on both the front and back of the PCB. Alternatively, installers can use two single-sided tubes positioned back-to-back, provided the retrofit kit allows for rotatable end caps to aim the light precisely toward the sign face.
In manufacturing plants, 5-foot T5HO fixtures are often mounted 20+ feet in the air. Heat accumulation at the ceiling level can be significant. Avoid cheap tubes with all-plastic bodies for these heights. Look for tubes with an aluminum backbone or heat sink to dissipate thermal energy effectively. Furthermore, if your facility processes food, glass tubes are often prohibited due to contamination risks. You must select shatterproof polycarbonate tubes that comply with NSF (National Sanitation Foundation) standards.
Moving to LED is an investment decision. To ensure the ROI is realized, the installation process must address electrical compatibility and safety compliance.
This is the most technical aspect of the upgrade. Fluorescent sockets come in two varieties: shunted (internally connected) and non-shunted (separate contacts).
Instant-start ballasts typically use shunted sockets. However, many Type B (Ballast Bypass) 5 feet led tube models require single-end power, which demands non-shunted sockets to prevent a dead short. If you apply Line and Neutral to a shunted socket, you will trip the breaker immediately. Before ordering, verify if your new tubes are "Double-End Powered" (compatible with shunted sockets) or "Single-End Powered" (require non-shunted sockets). Replacing sockets adds significant labor time to the project.
When you bypass a ballast, you fundamentally change the UL listing of the fixture. It is no longer a fluorescent fixture; it is now an LED-ready fixture wired for line voltage. Safety codes require you to apply the "Fixture Modified" sticker (usually included in the box) to the retrofit housing. This warns future electricians not to install a traditional fluorescent tube, which could explode if inserted into a direct-wire socket.
To pitch this upgrade to management, focus on three savings pillars:
Converting existing fixtures to 5-foot LED technology is one of the highest-ROI facility upgrades available today. The energy reduction is substantial, and the elimination of ballast maintenance solves a perpetual headache for facility managers. Success, however, relies on precision.
You must accurately identify your base type (Bi-pin vs. R17d) and commit to a driver strategy—preferably Type B for long-term reliability. Do not rely on nominal "5ft" descriptions; measure your tubes to ensure they fit your specific housing. For large commercial rollouts, we strongly advise purchasing a small test batch to verify socket compatibility and physical fit before committing to a full facility purchase.
A: Yes, provided the LED is specifically a T5 base (G5) and you verify if the fixture requires a ballast bypass or is plug-and-play. T5 sockets are smaller than T8/T12 sockets, so a standard LED tube will not fit. Ensure the tube is rated for the correct length (metric vs. imperial) of your fixture.
A: Visually, yes. While the raw lumens might be slightly lower or equal, the directional nature of LEDs puts more light on the workspace than the omnidirectional fluorescent. The LED directs light downward, whereas the fluorescent loses intensity by bouncing light off the fixture's reflector.
A: The light will likely not work, flicker, or the ballast/LED driver may suffer catastrophic failure. Type B tubes are designed for direct line voltage (120-277V). Feeding them through a ballast alters the voltage and frequency, which can destroy the internal electronics of the LED.
A: Quality 5ft tubes use aluminum backbones to prevent sagging; cheaper all-plastic tubes may bow over time in high-heat environments. Since 5 feet is a long span, thermal expansion can cause sagging in polycarbonate tubes. Always look for tubes with rigid aluminum heat sinks for industrial applications.
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